Japanese wisteria

Japanese wisteria . In botany , any plant that does not stand upright on its own, needing a support to perch: another plant, a wall, a rock, etc. , is called a climber, creeper, creeper, or vine . For this you can use organs such as tendrils , hooks , adventitious roots , etc. or it wraps around the support, then being called fickle. Certain vines do not need a support, and can spread across the ground surface without any problem. Vines can dry other plants or trees , if not pruned, by removing significant sunlight.to other plants. However, they are not parasitic plants, since they only seek a support to receive more light; Or, to find the perfect place for your development.

Summary

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  • 1 Taxonomy
    • 1 Scientific name
      • 1.1 Authors
    • 2 Basonym
      • 2.1 Basonym combinations
    • 3 Synonymy
    • 4 Common name
    • 5 Varieties
  • 2 Features
  • 3 Cultivation requirements
  • 4 Pruning
    • 1 In winter
    • 2 In summer
  • 5 Multiplication
  • 6 References
  • 7 Sources

Taxonomy

Scientific name

  • Wisteria floribunda (Willd.) DC. [1] [2] [3]

Authors

  • Augustin Pyramus de Candolle
  • Published in: Prodromus Systematis Naturalis Regni Vegetabilis 2: 390. 1825. [4]

Basonym

  • Glycine floribunda Willd. [5]

Basonym combinations

  • Kraunhia floribunda (Willd.) Taub.
  • Phaseolodes floribundum (Willd.) Kuntze
  • Rehsonia floribunda (Willd.) Stritch [6]

Synonymy

  • Glycine floribunda Willd.
  • Kraunhia floribunda (Willd.) Taub.
  • Phaseolodes floribundum (Willd.) Kuntze
  • Rehsonia floribunda (Willd.) Stritch [7]
  • Dolichos japonicus Spreng.
  • Millettia floribunda (Willd.) Matsum.
  • Van Houtte multiplayer wisteria [8]

Common name

  • Japanese wisteria, Japanese Wistaria

Varieties

  • Wisteria floribunda f. violaceoplena (CK Schneid.) Rehder & EH Wilson [9]

features

  • Origin: Japan.
  • Woody climber up to 8 m in length.
  • Deciduous leaves] with 13-19 leaflets from ovate to elliptical or lanceolate, with a rounded base, glabrous or with a very slight pubescence on the underside.
  • Flowersin large hanging clusters, up to 25 cm long, are violet blue , although there are also varieties with white or pink flowers .
  • The clusters have a pleasant perfume.
  • It blooms in springbefore the leaves appear.
  • Smaller clusters appear in summer- fall in a second bloom .
  • It may take several years to start producing flowers.
  • The fruitsappear late in the form of hanging, green and flattened berries .
  • The seedsand pods are very poisonous if ingested.
  • Uses: To cover porches, pergolas , walls, or building walls , sometimes climbing trees.

Cultivation requirements

  • Light: sun exposure .
  • Temperature: supports cold climates.
  • Well drained soil.
  • Water it a lot during the first year. Then moderate, without the soil drying out too much.
  • It has some resistance to drought.
  • Subscriber: an annual organic subscriber in autumn or winter is recommended . If chemical fertilizers are used , do so in spring at low doses and in late summer or early fall.

Pruning

  • You need pruningfor it to flourish successfully and flourish well.
  • Before entering the Flowering Pruning, on its formation, comment that if it is planted with the idea of ​​covering a pergola or an arch, try to leave a single trunk next to the column or pillar, not several per plant that come out of the ground, since they will get more tangled.
  • Wisteria takes a few years to start blooming from when it is planted.
  • It blooms on the branches grown the previous year.
  • Flowering pruning must be done in winter (a single intervention) and in summer (pruning every 15 or 20 days is ideal).

In winter

  • The main branches, originate 2 types of formations:
  • Short bouquets, called crowned toasts, have at the end a flower bud that will give rise to an inflorescence. They are all respected.
  • Long branches of several meters, of which only the buds of the base give flowers.
  • Pruning consists of cutting these branches about 30-40 centimeters from the base.
  • It is done in winter (in February better if it is an area with frost).
  • Pruning the lateral buds to 2 buds means losing some flowers, but the rest will be more beautiful and elegant.
  • The wisteria will be seen after pruning filled with short twigs.

In summer

  • It is not enough with the pruning of late winter that can be done in one day; during the summer, every 15 or 20 days, prune the long branches, leaving them about 40 cm long.
  • It is a lot of work, because it has to be repeated as I say every 15 or 20 days, but it is how the best results are achieved.
  • However, the most common is to do 1 or 2 pruning of these in summer instead of every 15 or 20 days throughout the summer season.
  • At least 1 must be done, if not, it will become a large, tangled mass with few flowers next year.
  • In summer it also sees removing past inflorescences.
  • Apart from all this, in winter the obligatory Cleaning Pruning is done, for example the same day as the Flowering Pruning, removal of dry, crisscross branches, suckers, etc.

 

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