Accurate dimensions, manufacturer-recommended specifications and brand reputation: what is important to consider when choosing the best battery for a car?The question “what kind of battery to buy for the car?” can be guaranteed to hear from any driver every 5 or 6 years. That’s about how long a good battery lasts if properly maintained. But where to get one, how to choose the right one so as not to overpay too much and not regret the purchase later? Auto Mail.ru has collected advice and recommendations from auto experts, sellers and manufacturers on this topic.
What are batteries
Despite plans for the widespread introduction of nickel-cadmium and lithium-ion batteries, which are now found mainly in expensive hybrids, the bulk of the batteries used in ICE cars are lead-acid models. The balance of characteristics and their price are considered optimal.
The most well-known are five types of lead-acid car batteries produced using various technologies. Among them, both widespread and rare:
- Low antimony batteries (Sb-Sb). In simple terms, this is the last century of car batteries. They are quickly discharged without load, the electrolyte gradually evaporates, it is required to add liquid and control the charge level. Plus, the plates can crumble in just a couple of years.
- Hybrid batteries (Ca+). They have one plate made of lead with antimony, and the other with calcium. These batteries hold a charge better, they have a more stable starting current and a service life of up to three to four years.
- Calcium batteries (Ca-Ca). Optimal batteries for both budget cars and middle-class cars. They have minimal self-discharge and electrolyte evaporation, and the service life can reach 7 years.
- EFB batteries. The abbreviation Enhanced Flooded Battery translates as “improved liquid-filled battery.” In fact, this is a calcium battery with thickened plates wrapped in a “package” of a special synthetic fiber. It lasts longer, it has better starting current and vibration resistance. Suitable for powerful cars and cars with a start-stop system for intensive use in the city with frequent engine starts. These batteries last up to eight years.
- AGM batteries. Absorbent Glass Mat – literally “absorbent glass mats.” In them, pieces of fiberglass are laid between the plates inside the battery. They are impregnated with electrolyte, so it is absorbed in the battery, and not in liquid form. As a result, the AGM battery can be used in any position except upside down. Such batteries can last up to 10-12 years, they have a high starting current even in cold weather, withstand accelerated charging and are suitable for powerful cars, machines with high energy consumption, with regenerative braking and start-stop function. But this type of battery is also the most expensive.
Source: Natalia Kokhanova
Signs of a dead battery
In addition to the question “how to choose a battery for a car?”, We often hear another one – “how to understand that it is time to change the battery?”. The main indicators of the approaching demise of a battery are low voltage and low current. That is, when there is not enough energy for the normal operation of the starter and it barely cranks the engine crankshaft.
If the battery is dead, then the instrument panel illumination and interior lamps will work dimmer than usual when the key is turned in the ignition. When the indication and the light in the car do not come to life at all, things are really bad. This means that the battery level has dropped to critically low values. But do not immediately send such a battery to the scrap. Perhaps it is still in order and requires only charging. And villages – due to a malfunction of the generator, current leakage, short circuit or other problems with the car’s electrics.
Therefore, before buying a new battery, first check the parameters of the existing one with a multimeter or charger. A “live” battery is required to produce at least 75% of the starting current from the declared in the characteristics and accept a charging current of 10% of its capacity. If there are no these means for testing, as well as a special stand nearby, and the battery is whole, clean, not swollen and does not emit unpleasant odors, charge it and put it on the car a day after that. If even then it will not be possible to start the car, then the battery should be replaced with a new one.
How to choose battery:
- per amp hour,
- by starting current
- by polarity
- by size,
- according to the type of fastening
- serviceability,
- by date of manufacture
- by brand
Battery selection by ampere-hours
Which battery to choose, based on ampere-hours, can be found in the car’s operating instructions. Usually, the optimal Ah value of the desired battery is indicated there. By the way, many mistakenly call this parameter battery capacity. In fact, it is his charge. Moreover, 60 Ah does not mean at all that the battery will deliver a current of 600 A for 6 minutes (0.1 hour).
This means that it can be discharged for 20 hours at 25°C with a current of 3 A (60:20). The battery charge in ampere-hours will vary depending on the size and type of vehicle engine. The most common batteries are 60 Ah. They are equipped with cars with gasoline engines ranging from 1.3 to 1.9 liters. Larger vehicles, SUVs and diesel versions may require 75-90 Ah batteries.
Starting current selection
Another important characteristic when choosing a battery is the starting current. This is the maximum amount of current that a battery can deliver in a short period of time – from 10 to 30 seconds – at a constant temperature of -18 ° C. Its value is also always indicated on the battery along with the ampere-hours. And the higher it is, the easier it will be to start the car engine on a frosty winter morning.
However, there is no point in trying to buy a battery with huge inrush currents. The minimum necessary to start the engine of a gasoline passenger car is a starting current of the order of 250-260A, and for a diesel one – in the region of 290-300A. That is, a battery with a starting current of at least 300A will definitely cope with its task. And the higher the numbers – 400A, 500A or more – the shorter the battery life. Yes, and you will overpay for the surplus in vain.
Which battery to choose by polarity
It was earlier in the USSR that a new battery was chosen only by ampere-hours, since the type of terminals and their polarity were the same for the Volga and the Zhiguli. But these days, with a variety of brands and models, they can vary. Terminals are of several types. European T1 (thick) is the most common, Asian T3 (thin) can also occur.
The polarity of the battery can be direct (left “plus”, right “minus”) and reverse (left “minus”, right “plus”). How to choose a battery for a car by polarity, you can find out from the operating instructions for the car. Usually the correct location of the electrodes is indicated there. You can also look at the already installed old battery and select a new one with the same location and type of terminals.
Choosing a new battery by size
It is also important to pay attention to such a factor as the dimensions of the battery when choosing it. After all, not only the “capacity” (charge) in ampere-hours depends on the size of the battery, but also whether it will fit in the regular place allotted by the manufacturer. The length, width and height of the battery can be taken from the documentation for the car or take measurements from the old one.
The dimensions of a standard European 60 Ah battery, often found in passenger cars, are 242 × 175 × 190 mm. As a rule, these are longer and lower batteries. Asian counterparts are narrower and higher. With the same capacity, the dimensions of such a battery will be 232 × 173 × 225 mm.
Which battery to choose for a car by type of attachment
How the battery is fixed on a special platform under the hood, in the trunk, at the passenger’s feet or under the rear seat, depends on the type of battery mounting. For European cars, this is usually a pressure plate that clings to the protrusions (shoulders) at the base of the battery case.
In Asian cars, it is attracted to the site by a frame or bar, which is attached to the top with studs. Paying attention to fastening is important, because a poorly or incorrectly fixed battery can be prone to vibrations or will jump on bumps. From this, the plates may crumble ahead of time and you will again need a new battery.
Battery selection by serviceability
On sale you can find both low-maintenance and maintenance-free batteries. The latter are preferred for those who do not know, do not know how or do not want to know about battery care and monitoring. They do not require attention throughout their entire service life, as they are less susceptible to boiling over. Of the controls, they only have a peephole with an indicator on the cover, which will tell the car owner when the battery needs recharging.
Low-maintenance ones will cost less. But for savings when buying, they will require periodic checks of the level and density of the electrolyte. They may need to top up with distilled water through special plugs in the battery case cover, sometimes covered by a removable panel.
Battery selection by date of manufacture
Because some batteries may be out of stock in specialized stores, checking the date of manufacture should also be included in the list of mandatory procedures when purchasing. Experts do not recommend taking batteries that have been manufactured for more than a year. Even with discounts. After all, the battery life is calculated from the moment the electrolyte is filled, and not from the date of commencement of operation.
Each company denotes the year and month of battery production in its own way. As a rule, they are applied by mechanical or laser engraving on the case. For example, for Varta products, the month and year of manufacture of the battery are encrypted in the first letter of the four-digit FiFO code on the cover. The table for decoding is on the official website of the company. Other companies may have five or six digit codes.
Select by brand
Sellers of car batteries claim that the quality of workmanship and the percentage of defects, even among eminent manufacturers, can vary depending on the year of manufacture, batch and place of manufacture of the battery. However, experts still advise not to trade for new and little-known brands, but to give preference to large brands with a well-deserved reputation over the years. These include Bosch, Varta, Topla, Multu, Banner, Tymen, Exide, Tab, Delkor, Akom, Alcor and Zver. Also, independent tests conducted by specialized publications will help you choose the best battery for your car.
How to check the battery when buying
Having chosen a new battery for the car in the store, it should be checked with a special tester or a load plug. Without a load connected, the battery must produce a so-called open-circuit voltage in the range from 12.5 to 12.7 V.
A value below 12.5V indicates that the battery needs to be recharged. If a load of 150-180 Ah is connected to the terminals of a new battery, then the voltage should not fall below 11 V for 10 seconds. If the battery does not pass these checks and does not provide the required parameters, then it is better not to buy it.
How to extend battery life
After buying a new battery, it must be properly maintained so that it lasts as long as possible. To do this, it is important to follow a few simple tips and tricks.
- After purchasing the battery, put it on a low current charge for 2-3 hours.
- Do not allow the battery to be completely discharged, after 5-6 discharges “to zero” it may fail.
- If the car is driven a little, charge its battery from the charger once a month.
- Clean the battery terminals from oxides – they worsen the contact and can cause the battery to undercharge.
- Ensure that the battery is securely fastened in a regular place to avoid unnecessary vibrations and premature shedding of the plates.
- Avoid battery overheating. At high electrolyte temperatures, the plates wear out faster and the battery life is reduced. To minimize this effect, a special thermal cover is put on the battery.
Source: Andrey Deryabin
Why You Shouldn’t Throw an Old Battery
A car battery, like conventional batteries, should not be thrown into the trash for at least two reasons. Firstly, in the process of corrosion and destruction of the battery case, toxic substances can enter the soil and groundwater. For this reason, batteries are not thrown away, but sent for recycling.
Well, and secondly, an old car battery, handed over at a special collection point for such batteries or directly in a store where you choose a new one, will bring you money. That is, in fact, will give an additional discount when buying. The cost of an old battery when scrapped depends on its “capacity” and weight. For a battery of 55-60 Ah, you can get from 500-600 to 800 rubles.
Myths and stories about batteries
There are a number of misconceptions and statements presented to beginners behind the wheel in the form of “experienced” advice. However, many of these recommendations do not make any sense, or their practical benefits, for example, to extend battery life, have been refuted by tests and studies. We have collected the most famous of them:
- Before starting the engine in winter, it is worth “warming up” the battery by turning on the headlights for a short while. In reality, this approach has no effect. Not having time to warm up from such a short-term load, the battery will only lose capacity.
- A battery that is too large will undercharge all the time and damage the starter. And here it is not. How much battery power the car will spend, so much will return. It just takes longer to fully charge a high-capacity battery. And the health of the starter under normal operating conditions does not depend on the capacity.
- The battery drains faster in cold weather. Rather, on the contrary. Chemical reactions in the cold slow down, and with them self-discharge. Therefore, at home in the heat, the battery will sit down faster than under the hood of a car left in a cold garage.
- A calcium battery is better than a lead one. In fact, they are one and the same. Calcium battery plates are alloyed with calcium during production (fractions of a percent). Otherwise, they are exactly the same lead.
- The battery is charged during any trip. Since the normal range for charging a car battery is from 0 to 25, the battery takes a charge worse at sub-zero temperatures overboard.
- An AGM battery cannot be used instead of a conventional battery and on older cars. It is not true. Requiring increased voltage in the on-board network, the AGM car battery is designed for heavy loads, as well as the number of charge and discharge cycles. Therefore, ceteris paribus operating conditions, it will last longer than a conventional battery. The car will not be worse from him.
- The best car batteries are gel batteries. This is not so, if only because for ordinary cars, which we are used to using every day, gel batteries, in principle, do not exist. This type of battery, in which the electrolyte is present in a thickened state, is used mainly in electric forklifts and other special equipment, but also in electric scooters, electric scooters, motorcycles, boats, snowmobiles and ATVs.
