Mandelic acid. Also known as amygdalic or 2-phenylglycolic acid, it is an AHAs derived from the hydrolysis of bitter almond extract, its chemical formula is C8H8O3 . It has been commonly used for the treatment of photoaging, irregular pigmentation, non-cystic inflammatory acne and to prepare the skin in pre and post laser resurfacing treatments .
Summary
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- 1 Discovery
- 2 Chemistry
- 3 Application in the cosmetics industry
- 4 Properties and advantages
- 1 Suitable for sensitive skin
- 2 Chemical peel
- 3 Immediate effects on the epidermis
- 4 Great dermal remodeling capacity
- 5 Depigmentation action
- 6 Seboregulatory, antfmicrobial and antibacterial action
- 5 Source
Discovery
Mandelic acid was discovered by heating a bitter walnut extract diluted in hydrochloric acid. The name derives from the German word “Mandel”, which means Almond .
Chemistry
Mandelic acid is an isomer of cresotinic acid and oxymethielbenzonic acid . Derivatives of mandelic acid are formed as the result of metabolism of adrenaline and norepinephrine with Monoamine oxidase and Transferase .
As the molecule has an atom of carbon chiral , this acid has two optically active forms. The racemic mixture of the two forms is known as Paramandelic Acid .
Application in the cosmetics industry
Mandelic acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid obtained from the extract of bitter almonds and which is cosmetologically the most widely used for acne and hyperpigmentation treatments. It is considered one of the AHAs with the highest molecular weight, which means that it is slowly absorbed by the skin, favoring a uniform effect and minimizing common disorders in the application of acids.
- Acne: Mandelic Acid acts during the infectious process, since in addition to fighting the bacteria that make up the process, it helps prevent them, avoiding the formation of new bacteria and accelerating healing, also collaborating with the treatment of eventual sequelae.
- Hyperpigmentations: Mandelic acid works in the inhibition of melanin synthesis (stain formation) as well as the already deposited melanin (already formed stain), helping in the removal of hyperchromic pigments.
- Super Mobile Renewal: He, in turn, during the stimulation of cells, removing the aging corneal covering .
Properties and advantages
Suitable for sensitive skin
Compared to glycolic acid , mandelic has a larger molecule that slows its penetration through the stratum corneum, without causing itching or irritation.
Chemical peel
The chemical mandelic acid peel, compared to the glycolic acid peel, produces less irritation, being less likely to cause erythema , hot areas, crusts, blisters or other adverse effects on the epidermis .
Immediate effects on the epidermis
Mandelic acid rapidly improves skin texture by decreasing the cohesion of corneocytes, activating cell regeneration, and promoting a thinner, more flexible and hydrated stratum corneum.
Great dermal remodeling capacity
Mandelic acid has a pKa of 3.41, so its ability to increase the synthesis of collagen , elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the papillary dermis is greater than that of other AHAs such as glycolic acid (pKa = 3.83).
Depigmenting action
The melasma , the hyperpigmentation postinflammatory and lentigines improve with products based on mandelic acid. In many cases, melasma improves up to 50% after one month of treatment with products at concentrations of 10%. In contrast to dark phototype patients treated with glycolic acid, hydroquinone, or tretinoin , no cases of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation have been observed with mandelic acid.
Seboregulatory, antfmicrobial and antibacterial action
Chemically, mandelic has a structure similar to that of other broad-spectrum antibiotics.
Controls and normalizes the amount of fat by penetrating the hair follicle and reduces the presence of P. acnes, improving the appearance of skin with inflammatory pustules, comedones, papular acne , foltculitis and rosacea .
In addition, preparing the skin with mandelic acid 2-4 weeks before and after laser resurfacing , prevents the formation of bacterial infections by Gram (-).
