Products with hyaluronic acid work to moisturize and also help when the skin becomes dry and dull. But with this miracle ingredient, everything is not so simple: if you apply it haphazardly, you can, on the contrary, harm the skin. Dermatologists have several tips on how to avoid this.
What is Hyaluronic Acid and How Does it Help Skin?
Hyaluronic acid is a special molecule – a polysaccharide . It was discovered in 1934, and in 1964 it was first synthesized in vitro – that is, “in a test tube”. But this substance is also in the nervous and epithelial tissues of our body. In the body, hyaluronic acid performs many functions – for example, it participates in the development of the embryo, helps heal wounds, and fights inflammation.
It is most often added to cosmetics as a moisturizing component. It acts as a humectant : it attracts moisture into the skin from the environment or from the deep layers of the skin to the upper ones. The skin becomes soft, smooth and radiant. Moreover, the result is often visible immediately : as if you applied a beauty filter in real life. In the long term, the skin looks fresher: wrinkles form more slowly, some even smooth out. However, to achieve this effect, you need to take into account several nuances.
Rule 1: Choose the right type of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is divided into two types. They can be added to cosmetics separately or together.
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High molecular weight. Remains on the outer surface of the skin and attracts water to it.
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Low molecular weight. Penetrates deeper into the epidermis.
High-molecular hyaluronic acid may be suitable for those who want to make their skin smoother and eliminate fine wrinkles. It is also more suitable for those with sensitive skin. But low-molecular hyaluronic acid works at a deeper level and can irritate sensitive skin, so you should be careful with it. Although an allergy to hyaluronic acid is a rare occurrence .
Rule 2: Don’t overdo it with hyaluronic acid
When an ingredient is useful, it seems that it is better to apply more. For example, in the morning wash your face with a gel with hyaluronic acid, then wipe your face with a toner with it and polish it with a moisturizing hyaluronic cream.
For some, such a routine may not be harmful. But for others, it will end with irritated skin. This was stated in her video by American dermatologist Andrea Suarez. It is not exactly clear why this happens. There are no clear studies on this topic yet. Perhaps, the whole point is that hyaluronic acid can enhance the penetration of other active components into the skin. And this is fraught with irritation. In any case, if you notice that your skin is tingling or turning red, it is better to check whether you have accidentally overdone it with hyaluronic acid.
Rule 3: Combine hyaluronic acid with other ingredients
Hyaluronic acid is a team player. In cosmetics, it combines well with other components – it enhances the effect of some and reduces the side effects of others. This means that you can get double the benefit from one tube.
Retinol
This component fights the signs of skin aging – wrinkles, pigment spots , uneven skin tone. It is effective, but it has a downside – it can dry and irritate the skin . And here hyaluronic acid will be very useful – it will moisturize and soothe.
Niacinamide
Products with this component relieve itching and irritation, strengthen the skin’s protective barrier and generally give it a healthy look . Niacinamide helps in the care of skin with acne and rosacea . Like hyaluronic acid, it is water-soluble, so they work well together. When hyaluronic acid moisturizes skin cells, it fills the space between them and visually reduces pores. Niacinamide also helps to reduce pores – it turns out to be a dual-action tandem. The same thing with radiance – the components complement each other.
Salicylic acid
The principle is the same as with retinol. Salicylic acid is an exfoliating component. It exfoliates the skin, penetrates deeper into the pores and cleanses them from accumulated sebum. Salicylic acid is usually used to treat acne. Most people tolerate this component well . But for some, it dries and irritates the skin. And again, hyaluronic acid can come to the rescue – it moisturizes and relieves irritation. As a result, using a serum for breakouts will become easier.
Ceramides
Ceramides are real helpers of the skin: substances that, like cement, bind its cells into a single tissue. They also protect the skin from viruses and infections, and also make it soft and smooth. Hyaluronic acid complements ceramides well. A product that contains both will moisturize the skin, relieve irritation and inflammation. This is especially important for people with acne, seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea.
Rule 4: Don’t apply hyaluronic acid over sunscreen or moisturizer.
There is no point in applying hyaluronic acid over cream. It will not do any good. The acid attracts moisture to the skin, but it needs to be “locked” inside. Occlusive components help with this , such as petroleum jelly or silicones. They create a film on the skin and prevent moisture from evaporating. These components can be found in cream. Therefore, it is better to apply a moisturizer after hyaluronic acid. And sunscreen is the final stage of care. It should be used after the moisturizer, waiting for it to be absorbed first.
Another important rule in applying hyaluronic acid is not to do it on dry skin. In this case, hyaluronic acid will work the opposite way and dry out the face even more. American dermatologist Andrea Suarez advises applying a product with hyaluronic acid to slightly damp skin. In this case, hyaluronic acid will be able to “capture” the moisture it needs and attract it into the skin.