In recent years, LED masks have increasingly appeared in the media. Beauty magazines and reputable publications write about them . They are bragged about on TikTok – and the videos fly into the hundreds of thousands of views. In addition, celebrities like Julia Roberts and Victoria Beckham put on glowing masks before going out on the red carpet. And in the case of LED therapy, science is on the side of trends this time. Doctors and researchers believe that it is truly effective.
What is LED therapy
LED therapy? or LED phototherapy? is a non-surgical skin care procedure. A person puts on special protective glasses, lies on his back, and a special device is shined on his face. For example, a cylinder with bulbs. Light waves penetrate the skin and act on it from the inside: they trigger intracellular photobiochemical reactions. The whole procedure takes about 20 minutes, and you can feel only warmth.
Recently, LED therapy has been increasingly written about by fashion magazines and bloggers . But this is not a newfangled invention. Dermatologists and cosmetologists-estheticians have been using LEDs for decades. Even before LEDs penetrated the beauty world, they were studied by NASA specialists: in the 90s, potatoes were grown on the space shuttle using blue and red LEDs. At the same time, the participants of the experiment noticed that after working under the light, abrasions on their hands healed faster. So NASA realized that LED light not only provides photosynthesis, but also heals the skin. It continued to be studied for medical purposes.
What types of LED therapy are there?
LED therapy uses light waves of different lengths. They all correspond to the different colors we see. Each color penetrates the skin to a different depth:
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Blue – works on the surface layers of the skin.
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Yellow – penetrates a little deeper.
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Red – penetrates even further.
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Near infrared light – penetrates the deepest.
According to dermatologist and cosmetologist Igor Parshin, the most studied light waves include:
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Blue waves – fight acne.
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Red waves – reduce inflammation and rejuvenate the skin.
Their effectiveness is proven by research. There is a fly in the ointment, too. For example, some researchers believe that prolonged exposure to blue light can age the skin. It can cause harmful unstable molecules in cells called free radicals. They are blamed for hyperpigmentation and photoaging of the skin.
Less is known about other colors. There are also hypotheses that yellow light stimulates the lymphatic system (and this fights edema), green fights hyperpigmentation, and lilac rejuvenates the skin.
What LED Therapy Really Helps With
Acne
Blue light destroys the cell membrane of the P. acnes bacteria. It is the one that causes acne. The effectiveness of this treatment has been confirmed by studies – in vitro (that is, “in a test tube”) and on people. The main advantage for people with acne is that LED therapy is gentle. Usually, acne is treated with rather aggressive means – local retinoids and benzoyl peroxide. They, unlike blue light, can irritate the skin.
Psoriasis
Experts from the American Academy of Dermatology believe that blue light can help with mild psoriasis. The mechanism is not yet completely clear. But it is more of a spot treatment for small areas of skin. Its advantage is that blue light is not as harmful as UV rays (they also treat psoriasis ). This means that the home device will not cause premature wrinkles or skin cancer.
The Academy’s website cited two studies as examples (though very small). The first involved 37 people with moderate plaque psoriasis. They treated the psoriasis area of skin with blue light for a month. Everyone noticed that the inflammation had decreased and there was less flaking and redness. The second study involved 47 people. They were treated with light for longer: 5-7 times a week during the first month, and then three times a week for two more months. The majority of patients experienced a decrease in the area of psoriasis. And in two patients, it even disappeared completely. But there were also those who were not affected by the blue light.
In any case, if you have a serious diagnosis like psoriasis, it is better to consult a dermatologist before any procedures.
Skin healing and rejuvenation
LED therapy stimulates blood circulation and fights inflammation. Therefore, it is used to heal the skin after irritating cosmetic procedures (for example, chemical peels ).
LED therapy is also used for aesthetic purposes. Thanks to it, collagen fibers, its main building protein, are synthesized in the skin . Plus, dermal cells, fibroblasts, multiply . Both collagen and fibroblasts are important for skin healing. Collagen fibers, for example, literally “pull” the edges of a wound together. Collagen and fibroblasts also tighten the skin and reduce wrinkles.
Is it possible to do LED therapy at home?
Yes, that’s what LED masks were invented for — futuristic gadgets with slits for the mouth, nose, and eyes. Dermatologist Igor Patrin believes that they are quite effective and unlikely to harm the skin. This opinion is shared by American dermatologist Andrea Suarez. In her video, she said that LED masks are completely safe. They do not emit heat, do not cause hyperpigmentation, and do not leave scars. But there are also disadvantages — home gadgets are weaker than salon ones or those used by dermatologists. This does not mean that they do not work. You will just have to wait a little longer for the results and they will not be as striking. The main thing in this matter is consistency.
In addition to masks, there are also LED gadgets that look like a toothbrush or an electric razor. Their advantage is their compactness – it’s easier to throw them in your bag and take them with you on vacation. And they often work pointwise: you can shine the light on a pimple or pigment spot that popped up in the morning.
How to choose a LED mask and how to use it correctly
Dermatologists advise choosing gadgets that have been tested by the FDA — the American Federal Agency for Supervision of Food and Drugs. Look for the words FDA-cleared or FDA-approved on the packaging. This is a quality certificate. It means that the manufacturer has provided the FDA with all the necessary information about the device. And the experts, in turn, have made sure that it is effective and safe.
The golden rule of home LED therapy: read the instructions for the gadget and follow them. But there are also universal tips. American dermatologist Muneeb Shah listed them in his TikTok:
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Wash and dry your face. There should be no cosmetics on it, not even skincare: when the skin is shiny from the cream, the light can reflect off it and not penetrate inside. This will negate the entire effect.
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Put on a mask and close your eyes for extra protection.
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Wait three minutes, remove the mask, and continue your usual beauty routine. You can even apply a retinol serum, says Dr. Shah.
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Repeat the procedure at least three times a week and expect results in three months.
American ophthalmologist Rupa Wong advised to additionally protect the eyes – wear opaque goggles (if they are not included with the mask, they can be purchased separately). This is especially important for people with migraines or epilepsy. For them, bright light can provoke an attack.
Who should not treat skin with LEDs
In general, LED therapy is considered painless and relatively safe. Dermatologists say so . But the procedure also has contraindications. These include , for example, hereditary eye diseases and skin cancer. It is also better to exclude LED therapy if a person takes medications that make the skin more vulnerable to sunlight. Examples of such drugs are isotretinoin and lithium.