The skin can do without a ten-step care system, boosters and fabric masks. But it is unlikely to do without good hydration. Any skin needs it at any time of the year. We tell you how to hydrate your skin according to all the rules.
Why moisturize your skin at all?
Moisturizing is an important part of basic care. This is what both researchers and dermatologists say . Moisturizing creams, lotions, and serums are dry skin’s best friends. They relieve tightness and itching, and make the skin less flaky, softer , and more elastic. This is especially true for people with skin conditions, such as atopic dermatitis or ichthyosis.
Skin is our barrier. It protects tissues from infections, dehydration and mechanical damage. Normally, water from the deeper layers of the skin rises to the top and moisturizes the outer (horny) layer, and then evaporates. The horny layer is like a house wall: it consists of “bricks” (horny cells – corneocytes) and “cement” – intercellular lipids. When these “bricks” are lacking, the skin’s water barrier is damaged – it loses water and dries out. Moisturizers combat this. They restore the skin barrier and bring more moisture to the horny layer. They also create a protective film and protect the skin from friction. Thanks to a moisturizer, the skin absorbs and distributes water better.
How to Choose a Moisturizer
There are many nuances here, but there is a general rule – pay attention to the composition . Moisturizing components include :
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Emollients . These substances soften the skin and make it smooth. They include squalene, fatty alcohols, ceramides, oils.
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Humectants. They attract moisture into the skin from the environment or from the deep layers of the skin to the upper layers. Examples are glycerin, sorbitol, urea, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid.
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Occlusives . They create a film on the skin and lock moisture inside so that it does not evaporate. Occlusives include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, silicones and waxes.
Canadian dermatologist Sandy Skotnicki believes that a moisturizer should contain all of these components at once. She wrote about this in her book, Beauty Minimalism.
By skin type
Oily and problematic skin
Moisturizer does not make your skin oilier. This is a myth. The production of sebum is controlled by sex hormones, not cosmetics. Another thing is that it may simply be uncomfortable to smear something on your face, which already shines like a fried pancake. This is a matter of taste.
People with acne also benefit from moisturizing. Firstly, when the skin is dry, the body tries to compensate for this by producing more sebum. Its excess can clog pores, and this is a risk of new breakouts. Secondly, acne products additionally dry out and irritate the skin. For example, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and isotretinoin. It is easier to treat the skin with a moisturizer.
For acne, the American Association of Dermatologists recommends looking for the following labels on jars and tubes:
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“without oils”
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“non-comedogenic”
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“does not clog pores.”
And if you are not very sure about the honesty of the manufacturer, you can check the composition in a cosmetic analyzer (like this one ).
How to properly moisturize your skin
How to Moisturize Your Face
Dermatologists often advise applying moisturizer not to dry skin, but to damp skin – immediately after washing. This way you will get the maximum effect, because the product (or rather the occlusives in it) will “lock” the moisture in the skin. It is enough to moisturize the face twice a day. The order is as follows:
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wash;
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apply a product with active ingredients (for example, a cream prescribed by a dermatologist or a serum);
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apply moisturizer and/or sunscreen;
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Apply makeup if you wear makeup.
How to Moisturize Your Body
The main principle is the same – apply cream or lotion to damp skin. For example, right after a shower. Do not rub your skin with a towel, but simply blot it so that the fabric absorbs excess water. And in the next five minutes, apply a moisturizer. Which one exactly depends on your preferences and skin type.
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Lotion. It is more watery and easily absorbed . Suitable for different skin types.
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Cream. It is thicker than lotion, contains emollients and is suitable for dry and mature skin.
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Balm. The thickest and densest product. Contains occlusive components like Vaseline. This is an option for very, very dry and cracked skin.
In general, body skin is different from facial skin. It is denser and less sensitive. Therefore, as a rule, body products are thicker. Also, a cream that stings your face may be suitable for the body (it does not work the other way around). You most likely do not need a special cream for your earlobes or the skin around your belly button . The same jar can be used for the entire body, although marketers sometimes try to convince us otherwise. The exception is the feet and elbows, where there are few sebaceous glands. Sometimes a shock dose of moisturizing is needed there. Dermatologists, for example, advise looking for a cream with 10-25% urea for cracked heels.
Is it possible to overdo it with moisturizing?
The principle of “everything in moderation” also works in skin care. Excess moisture can actually be harmful to the skin. For example, it causes diaper rash in children in diapers. And people who wear protective masks all day long get maskne rashes .
And yet, it is difficult to catastrophically damage your skin with a moisturizer. This is the opinion of American dermatologist Andrea Suarez. There will most likely be no serious consequences (like, for example, from overdoing it with acids and retinol). But it is important to keep in mind: active components penetrate deeper into moisturized skin. This means that the skin becomes irritated faster, and side effects may appear from a proven serum.
If you are afraid of overdoing it with moisturizing, read the instructions on the packaging. Usually the manufacturer writes how many times to press the dispenser or how much cream to squeeze out. There are also general recommendations :
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Face cream – a pea the size of a ten-cent coin is enough for the whole face (in Russia, use a five-kopeck coin, it’s almost the same).
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Facial lotion – a pea-sized amount, about the size of a nickel (again, the equivalent is a penny coin).
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Body products – there is no universal answer here. You need to apply enough to evenly cover the entire body (or the areas you decide to concentrate on). Usually, you need less lotion for this than cream.
In general, if you do three sheet masks a day, apply hyaluronic serum after each one and fix the result with Vaseline – this is clearly too much. But you can simply generously apply moisturizer at night. American dermatologist Shereen Idriss, for example, advises to smear it so that the face “resembles a glazed donut.”