DualShock 4 and drifting: how to solve the analogue problem – Guide

In these months of guides branded PlayStationBit we have talked a bit about everything. We started with problems such as the sharing of digital games and the subscription to the PlayStation Plus and we came to discover life, death and miracles of PlayStation Now , the new streaming service available on our beloved Sony console. Today, however, we want to take a further step in our tutorials, abandoning the purely software side behind these machines to launch ourselves in solving problems that can only be solved with screwdrivers and manual skills.

How many times have you happened that the controller no longer responded precisely to your commands? Why does the character move forward if you are not pressing any buttons? If you too have run into these annoying problems, then the guide we want to offer you could be just right for you. Before starting, however, it is necessary to know the topic we are going to talk about well. Analog slipping, commonly referred to as “drift”, is a very frequent problem affecting the directional levers of practically every controller on the market. Despite this defect has risen to the fore with Nintendo Switch and its Joy-Con, even the DualShock 4 could run into this unpleasant problem.

The causes that can lead to drift are manifold. It ranges from humidity and dust in the environment to too mild cleaning of the device; all factors that can compromise the internal functioning of your pad. If this defect emerged instead as a result of ruinous falls or excessive pressure, then the guide that you will soon read will serve no purpose and the only thing you can do is replace the device or try with the Fix & Replace of PlayStation . If not, bring a pair of tweezers, a 1.8 mm Phillips screwdriver, some good quality cotton swabs wet with a bit of isopropyl alcohol (the nail polish remover is fine) and get ready to get to know better what is hidden under the body of the controller.

Step 1: removing the rear body and accessing the battery compartment

Before starting the actual cleaning, be sure to carry out all the steps on a plane that is large enough and free from various trinkets, so as to cut short the possibility of losing some important lives (I opted for a mat for playing cards ). Once the work area has been set up and all the equipment has been prepared, remove the four screws (1) located on the back of the controller and gently open the body (apply slight pressure along the joints, if you are in difficulty).

During this step (2), be very careful with the backbones; in addition to the trigger spring, in fact, these components have some differences between the first and second versions of the DualShock 4. While the newer models have a single block that is very easy to remove, the old ones need more pressure, since even the small one must be removed piece of plastic that divides L1 from L2 and R1 from R2. If you have managed to open everything, remove the white connector by gently pulling on the blue band and divide the rear body from the rest of the device (3).

Once this is done, put on tweezers and carefully remove the battery connector tab (4) by pressing lightly on both sides. Be very careful not to damage the two connected cables (one black and the other red), otherwise you will have to replace the entire block. Once the battery is removed, you will notice the presence of a black plastic plate (5), the last obstacle on your way to analogs. As with the backbones, there is also a small difference between V1 and V2 in this case. In the more recent model the plate is joined to the printed circuit by a screw, while in the old one the piece of black plastic is only stuck and the screw must be removed later.


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